Game on: Using Wild Meat in Your Menu

Morton the black labrador catches dinner!

If you are holding an event between September and February I can highly recommend including some seasonal British wild meats and game into your menu.
The term 'game' refers to the species of birds and animals listed in the Game Act 1871, which include pheasant, partridge and grouse. These birds are legally protected and have an enforced ‘open season’ dictating where and when they can be shot. Deer are covered under separate but similar laws which vary depending on the breed. Other birds and wild meats such as rabbit, duck, goose and pigeon are ‘non-game’ because they have no legally determined season, however they are often at their best during the same time of year as their protected peers. (Fish are protected by similar laws but have a spring / summer based season). Here is a quick guide to what to eat, when and how.

GAME BIRDS
Pheasant
Always serve off the bone. Pheasant tastes lovely served in a classic way with game chips or served with apple and calvados. It’s also a great choice as a canapé such as pheasant goujons with roasted garlic aioli.
Open season: October – February
Partridge
A delicious meat; the epitome of rich, gamey taste and perfect for an elegant winter British countryside wedding. I would only serve partridge for a small wedding, and only if you know everyone will love it. If you’re having a buffet, try partridge sausages with smoky bacon and prunes – amazing!
Open season: September – February
Grouse
This is expensive and always in high demand. I long to serve it on ‘the Glorious 12th’or for a September wedding with a Scottish groom with great connections!
Open season: August – September 

NON-GAME BIRDS
Duck
Wonderful and very, very versatile across all courses. I like it simple; roasted breast or stuffed wild duck.
Canapé idea: Duck breast, carved very thinly and wrapped around a chopstick with fresh mango.
Main idea: Pistachio and shallot stuffed duck on a bed of celeriac mash, with confit Savoy cabbage and Marsala jus.
At its best: September – January
Goose
Suitable for a feast!  A big bird which needs a big table, I would insist it is carved in front of guests. A medieval themed wedding perhaps?
At its best: September – January
Wood Pigeon
Great as a starter. Keep it simple, for example sautéed with wild mushrooms and crème de cassis.
At its best: January – March
Guinea-Fowl
I refer to guinea-fowl as “how chicken used to taste” it’s mild, tasty and I think a perfect choice for any wedding. We stuff the breasts off the bone and then confit the leg so the meat just falls off – serve with some roasted garlic mash, wilted greens and tarragon jus and I guarantee clean plates.
At its best: September – December 

DEER and WILD BOAR
Venison
A fabulous meat and so under used. It’s rich, easy to cook and gets beautifully pink. There are an abundance of ways to use venison – Carpaccio, sausages, roast saddle. It costs about as much as good Scotch fillet of beef and I think makes a really good alternative.
Season dependent on the breed, generally August – March
Wild Boar
Use wild boar and apple sausages for an inspired winter take on sausage and mash. Serve with winter root mash and confit of Savoy with a rich jus.
At its best: throughout winter 

NON-GAME MEATS
Rabbit
I love rabbit and am in heaven when my clients have the same passion for its delicate taste. Choose a terrine as a starter or a trio for main with stuffed loin, confit leg and roasted saddle – elegant and stylish.
At its best: July – December

This post was originally posted on The Wedding Community. Click to see more of Julie Grays advice.

Birthday Celebrations: The Thank you

Dear Julie,
I wanted to say a big thank you for everything.
Our party was a huge success with all of our friends and family commenting on how wonderful it was.
Everything ran seamlessly. The Orangery looked beautiful (you knew what you were doing…), the food was delicious and despite our friends’ best efforts, as you predicted, the bar did not run out of booze!
Mark and I both had a fantastic time and thanks to you and the Bovingdons team we had a completely stress free evening and were able to relax and simply enjoy our party.
Chris was a true professional and the service staff and barman did a fantastic job – as of course did the chefs behind the scenes! 
Kind regards
Trudi

Beefeater 24 Gin & Tea Event - Photos

 Trifle crab cocktail

Beefeater 24 cured sea bream on juniper and tonic jelly

 Foie gras éclairs and profiteroles with sauternes jelly

Savoury Cupcakes with prawns and dill mayonnaise

Beefeater 24 Gin & Tea Event - The Menu

CANAPES

Quails eggs royale – brioche, poached quails egg, smoked salmon and hollandaise

Beefeater 24 cured sea bream on juniper and tonic jelly

Foie gras éclairs and profiteroles with sauternes jelly

Chorizo scotch quails eggs

King fish sashimi with lime, green tea and wasabi dressing

Macaroons – salt and pepper with goats cheese

Scones – cheese, tomato and basil – crackle top

Bagels – miniature with smoked salmon and horseradish cream, lime jelly

Savoy – cabbage with confit duck, apple and foie gras

Straws - long filo fingers of ham hock confit with apricots

Trifle crab cocktail

Cupcake – prawns, dill mayonnaise

BOWLS

Wild boar and venison sausages and butter mash with onion marmalade and veal jus

Lemon risotto, seared sea bass and crispy leeks

Broad bean and pecorino Arancini with cauliflower couscous and lemon yoghurt

STATIONS

Cheese

A selection of fabulous cheeses, canapés , breads, fruits, nuts, celery

Oysters

Freshly shucked oysters with an assortment of interesting and unexpected condiments served from a dry ice station

Jelly caviar

PUDDINGS

Sweet sushi

Waffle cones of green tea ice cream

Liquorice panna cotta with chocolate spaghetti

Creative Ways to Serve Coffee

Ensure whatever coffee you serve is freshly ground, gently roasted and served strong.

 * Serve from an Espresso Tricycle

 * Create a tea station, with a tea sommelier ready to offer Teapigs flavours  … teapigs, tisanes and fabulous petit fours

  * Get creative, expand beyond the usual into chai frappe, hot toddys, mulled teas...

  * Build a coffee themed cocktail bar serving iced coffees and fresh coffee martinis

Big Picture

Mushroom duo plate with baked Portabello mushroom and a demi tasse of wild mushroom soup. Hearty, warming, perfect for Winter.

Photo by Lloyd Dobbie http://www.lloyddobbie.com/blog/

Your ideas made a huge difference...

The marquee at Fulham Palace full of people fundraising for the F.R.O.D.O. children's charity event.

Dear Julie,

Your team did the most wonderful job last night for our event.  Tony was terrific.  All the staff looked great and were so professional. The food was (as I already knew!) delicious. 

I cannot begin to thank you enough, however, for your creativity, wise advice and generosity.  All of your ideas made a huge difference - the room looked amazing with the bowls of fruit (scavenged  by guests as they left!) and the coloured napkins, the different flavoured champagne cocktails went down a treat, the games all worked really well and everything contributed to the guests having a hugely enjoyable.  

We shall be singing the praises of Bovingdons for a long time.  And I can't wait for another opportunity to work with you.

Thank you so much.

Vanessa Cummings

Chief Executive


(Photo by Lloyd Dobbie)

Menu Inspiration: French Chic

Small is beautiful and this wedding celebration was certainly both. Rachel and Guillaume were looking for a venue that could host twenty close friends and family to celebrate their wedding, the actual ceremony of which was to be held at home in Marrakech the following weekend. They wanted a relaxed meal in a chic, private venue and The Orangery fit the brief perfectly. One long table down the middle provided the perfect intimate platform for their specially chosen menu. The was filled with plenty of speeches and laughter in between every course.

Start

Chermoula red mullet and braised baby fennel
Lemon yoghurt and herbed flat bread

Main

Lavender and garlic roasted lamb rump with potato croquette

with minted pea puree, cardamon carrots and parsnips

Sweet

Vanilla pannacotta with oven roasted peaches in amaretto syrup and almond praline

Menu Inspiration: Fulham Palace Wedding Menu

Something elegent and fresh for Joanne and Tristan's early Spring wedding at Fulham Palace.

Start
Portobello mushroom with parmesan, roasted garlic and thyme
with a demi tasse of wild mushroom soup, truffle oil

Homemade ciabatta, herb bread and butter

Main

Scottish fillet of beef served with dauphinoise potatoes,

wilted spinach, fine French beans, shallot tart tatin and a rich Burgundy jus

Finish
Warm caramelised pear and thyme tarte tatin
with fresh vanilla ice cream

(photo by Lloyd Dobbie)

The Royal Wedding: What they ate, When they ate it and Why

What a wonderful day, it made me so proud to be British! Especially the Royal Wedding menu which said so much about the wealth of incredible food we have in this country.

Unfortunately unlike many of my wedding industry friends who can comment on the dress, the venue, the hair and the flowers, I can only speculate on the look and taste of the food!As I predicted in this previous article, the theme around the food was “seasonal, local and organic”. Clarence House made sure to point out that “All the ingredients were carefully sourced from Royal Warrant holding companies using UK-based ingredients”. Free from French or strawberries - refreshingly unusual given Royal Wedding menus of the past!
Ingredients included: Gressingham duck, English goats cheese from Paxton and Whitfield, English asparagus, Welsh organic celery salt, langoustines from the North West Coast of Scotland, pork from the Cotswolds, English crayfish, Windsor Estate lamb, smoked haddock from the East Coast of Scotland, Beef from the Castle of Mey, selections in the North Highlands of Scotland and English rhubarb

1.30pm – The Canape Reception

A total 10,000 canapes were served to 650 guests over a two hour reception. Whilst this would have meant about 15 canapes per guest, I do feel a little sorry for those who had been inside Westminster Abbey since 9am and probably up since 6am.As predicted, every choice is an absolute bite-size classic, no spoons, no forks, no skewers or faff. The canapé selection was biased towards vegetarian options, five choices compared with four fish and four meat options. Believe it or not, choosing a lot of vegetarian options is a great way to ensure most guests are kept happy and fed. What did surprise me was that there were eight (eight!) sweet options - four bite sized puddings and four types of chocolate truffles - although I suspect proportionally less of these were served than the savoury options. Someone at the Palace clearly has a sweet tooth! Guests drank non-vintage champagne and soft drinks.

MEAT

Pressed Duck Terrine with Fruit Chutney
Grain Mustard and honey-glazed Chipolatas
Miniature Yorkshire Pudding with Roast Fillet of Beef and Horseradish Mousse
Bubble and Squeak with Confit Shoulder of Lamb

FISH
Cornish Crab Salad on Lemon Blini
Scottish Smoked Salmon Rose on Beetroot Blini
Scottish Langoustines with Lemon Mayonnaise Pressed Confit of Pork Belly with Crayfish and Crackling

Smoked Haddock Fishcake with Pea Guacamole

VEGETARIAN

Roulade of Goats Cheese with Caramelised Walnuts

Assortment of Palmiers and Cheese Straws

Miniature Watercress and Asparagus Tart

Poached Asparagus spears with Hollandaise Sauce for Dipping

Quails Eggs with Celery Salt

Wild Mushroom and Celeriac Chausson

SWEET
Gateau Opera
Blood Orange Pate de Fruit
Raspberry Financier
Rhubarb Crème Brulee Tartlet

CHOCOLATES
Passion Fruit Praline
White Chocolate Ganache Truffle
Milk Chocolate Praline with Nuts
Dark Chocolate Ganache Truffle

3pm-7pm – The Break
Take note if you are getting married earlier than 2pm: by including a “break” in proceedings, Kate and William have avoided two things; they have avoided a “black hole” in the momentum of the day and avoided feeding their guests twice (lunch and dinner). I imagine that guests that went to both the canapé reception and the evening reception appreciated the chance to refresh, recharge and have a small bite to eat to keep them going. I cannot stress enough how flat the atmosphere will be on your Wedding Day if you insist on having an early wedding and then don’t feed your guests properly or leave them hanging around in a black hole of proceedings. 2pm or 3pm remains my ideal time to get married.

7pm – The Black Tie Reception
300 closest friends and family gathered for the “party party” whilst The Queen, Prince Phillip and the young bridesmaids retired to bed. This time, guests were offered vintage pink champagne, peach bellinis and elderflower cocktails as they gathered for the formal meal.

8pm - Dinner in The Palace Ballroom

Decor was kept simple and elegant, tables with white flowers, candles and named after places special to the couple. By all accounts the table plan made sure to mix both Royals and the less regal guests to encourage a relaxed atmosphere. Details on the food are still coming through…

Start: Dressed Welsh crab with mini crab timbale, crayfish and prawns

Main: Highgrove Estate Lamb “done three ways”

Finish: Trio of mini-puddings: trifle, chocolate fondant and homemade ice-cream

11.30pm – Evening Buffet in The Throne Room
After speeches and fireworks, guests headed to a cocktail bar serving champagne, spirits and Mojito cocktails (I doubt it was a cash bar!) Bacon sandwiches and icecreams were served from food trucks in the courtyard for “survivors” before the hardcore party addicts headed back to the Goring for an afterparty.

Menu Inspiration: Champagne Canapes

The brief: to satisfy the equisite palates of a hundred guests who have come to drink rather than eat. Bovingdons recently catered for the French Trade Commission event showcasing the wares of twelve small domain French Champagne producers.

As you can see from this rather lovely thank you note, the secret to success was in providing great service and ensuring that the champagne flowed and flowed and flowed. The canapes were a mixture of flavours to compliment the champagne in both sight and taste. They were elegant, varied and interesting.

"Our event could only have been as successful as it was  because of your amazing team! Tony and Aini were fantastic! I am sure this was deliberate and that they were hand-picked etc but really they effortlessly ran the show. They were delightful to all of us, charming to our guests, nothing was too much trouble... of course the canapés were also sensational but that we already knew!"

Canapés

Scottish smoked salmon with cream cheese on baby bagel

Quails egg Royale

Fresh asparagus tortes

Blinis of crayfish tail with spaghetti of cucumber

Bruschetta topped with marinated eggplant and Chevre

Chopstick forks of seared magret of duck with honey dipping sauce

Mushroom croquettes

Vegetarian sushi roll with ginger

Lemon shortbread with blueberries
Almond biscotti with caramelised pear and mascarpone

British Asparagus... eating it!

Here are some wonderful ways to enjoy asparagus…

As a trio: asparagus torte, chargilled spears, a quails egg and a shot glass of cool asparagus vichyssoise (see left)

As an incredibly elegant starter…
Saturn bowl filled with a salad of fresh asparagus, artichoke hearts, blistered cherry tomatoes and avocado with chervil and mustard dressing

As a natural way of adding some drama to a salad…
Fresh hand made asparagus ravioli with herb emulsion and micro shoots

Spring take on pasta…
Rare roast Sirloin of beef with wild mushroom jus, chargrilled asparagus and thyme Talegio potatoes

As a perfect partner to some phenomenal centrepiece…
Asparagus bundles tied with chives served with a vanilla and pomegranate mayonnaise

A stylist ingredient in a working brunch…
Fresh asparagus soup with crème fresh and sage parmesan bread

Stand alone stand out soup…
Poussin with fresh asparagus stuffing, lemon risotto and tarragon tus

And two ideas from the British Asparagus Growers website ...
Gizzy Erskine’s British asparagus, broad bean, mint and mozzarella brushetta
Tiffany Goodall’s British asparagus Thai coconut curry

British Asparagus.. growing it

The smell of cut grass, the sound of birdsong, the sight of daffodils, the taste of asparagus – Spring is here!

As I mentioned in my asparagus article this time last year, asparagus represents British food at its best but it has a woefully unpredictable and short season. The good news this year is that the first crop has come very early indeed. You may have noticed it already in the shops or at your local farmers market. At Ripley Farmers Market on Sunday, bundles of asparagus on Secretts stall were snapped up very quickly.
I have tried to grow asparagus from two year old crowns – but my soil if definitely not right! One of my girlfriends has a whole bed of it (envy). Once the tips have stopped growing (apparently you must always leave a third unpicked towards the end of the season) the leaf fronds that are produced all summer are fabulous for flower arranging.
In my opinion the very best way to enjoy it is communally. Gather a group of close friends in the garden, wander through the beds with a glass of Sauvignon Blanc in hand picking fresh spears and popping them onto the BBQ for a minute. Dip in melted butter or lemon mayonnaise, fresh, tasty, heavenly.
Happy eating and gardening!

Ripley Farmers Market

We had a fantastic turn out at Ripley Farmers Market on Sunday. Hello to everyone that came to enjoy fun in the sun.

This months market had a Royal Wedding theme so bunting a plenty (see left). There was also a dog show which was free to enter for corgis!


Walking past the piles of fresh, seasonal produce, asparagus, radishes, spinach.... was inspiring and invigorating. I feel like I have come out of hibernation.

Local Suppliers: The Conisbee Family

As you know, I am a huge champion of local and seasonal ingrediants. It was great to see one of my longest suppliers, F Conisbees and Son, mentioned in The Guardian this weekend.

Bovingdons have been buying meat from the Horsley based Conisbee family butchers since 1996, although the Surrey farmers and butchers has been around for 250 years.


I have served their award-winning sausages to Royalty and common man alike and they are on high demand at the annual Meat and Livestock Commission BBQ at Westminster Abbey Gardens. Their home cooked ham and pork pies are pefect for a picnic in the sun. It is a pleasure to deal directly with James Conisbee, he is hugely knowledgable and incredibly passionate about the welfare of his animals.


The team are right in the thick of lambing at the moment, as you can see from these very evocative series of photos in The Guardian."Up to 300 ewes are lambing at Barracks Farm in Fetcham, Surrey. The farm is owned by the Conisbee family who supply their own butchers shops in nearby Horsley. The business has been run by generations of the family for more than 250 years."

Menu Inspiration: Katherine and William, 29th April 2011

What will Katherine Middleton and Prince William be eating on their wedding day?

Here is what I would suggest serving if I was catering:

The style of the food will be secondary to phenomenal service - an essential to create a relaxed, loving feeling amongst the groom’s Royal family and the bride’s less than regal guests. The style will emphasise love and affection over pomp and circumstance. Think traditional bite size canapes (no shots, spoons or skewers) followed by a light Spring menu.

Canapés

Little minted pea tarts with sour cream and pea shoots

Herb blinis of smoked trout with gooseberry salsa

Cucumber cups of lemon tarragon chicken

Start

Home cured Scottish salmon with fennel Carpaccio

Main

Welsh new season cannon of lamb, new season Jersey Royals and baby vegetables

Sweet

British rhubarb trio

Rhubarb crumble, rhubarb braised with orange and rhubarb with ginger ice cream

Evening

Cornish cheeses

Menu Inspiration: Zara and Michael, 30th July 2011

What will Princess Zara and Mike Tindall be eating on their Wedding day?

Whatever they choose it will be one hell of a ball! I confess Zara is my top Royal and I would love to be a guest alongside the cream of international sport and the more fun loving royals. The style of food will be fun, simple and with plenty of carbohydrates - in short the best of British with lots of robust, masculine choices to sate the needs of hungry Rugby players.

Canapés

Mini bagels of smoked salmon and cream cheese

Potted prawns in melba baskets

Wraps of Norfolk duck with mango and spinach

Slow roasted Isle of Wight tomatoes on ricotta cakes with basil wafers

Start

Asparagus trio: Asparagus tortes, chargrilled asparagus with quail’s eggs and parmesan

beside a shot of asparagus Vichyssoise

Main

Scottish black beef or braised Salt Marsh lamb shanks

Sweet 

Cotswold mess – meringues, strawberries, cream and chocolate shavings

Evening

Bacon butties and mini hot dogs

Royal Wedding Menu Ideas

How will our two thoroughly modern, very distinctive royal couples approach choosing their wedding menu?

Royal wedding receptions follow a fairly standard design - a large canapé reception followed by a smaller, more private dinner for around 120 guests, finishing with dancing and further merriment in the evening.

It’s worth remembering that whilst the Royal family are required to follow protocol, they always lead (rather than follow) fashion.

When it comes to choosing their food, I think that both couples have the confidence and maturity to make every aspect their own.

Out will go scripted French menus (so last century) and dishes named in honour of the bride and groom (far too egotistical). Instead, there will be utmost emphasis on provenance of the food. Not just lamb but Welsh Salt Marsh lamb, not just raspberries but Scottish organic raspberries; a selfless showcase of the very best British ingredients.

I will write the next two posts on my thoughts on what each couple will go for.

This article was originally published on The Wedding Community.

Wishing You An Abundant Christmas

from Julie, Andrew, Benita, David , Tony, Jade, Laura, Dave, Gerry, Solenne, Aini, Lucy and Mickey

“The poulterers' shops were still half open, and the fruiterers' were radiant in their glory. There were great, round, pot-bellied baskets of chestnuts, shaped like the waistcoats of jolly old gentlemen, lolling at the doors, and tumbling out into the street in their apoplectic opulence. There were ruddy, brown-faced, broad-girthed Spanish Onions, shining in the fatness of their growth like Spanish Friars, and winking from their shelves in wanton slyness at the girls as they went by, and glanced demurely at the hung-up mistletoe. There were pears and apples, clustered high in blooming pyramids; there were bunches of grapes, made, in the shopkeepers' benevolence to dangle from conspicuous hooks, that people's mouths might water gratis as they passed; there were piles of filberts, mossy and brown, recalling, in their fragrance, ancient walks among the woods, and pleasant shufflings ankle deep through withered leaves; there were Norfolk Biffins, squab and swarthy, setting off the yellow of the oranges and lemons, and, in the great compactness of their juicy persons, urgently entreating and beseeching to be carried home in paper bags and eaten after dinner.”

Charles Dicken's description of Christmas Day market as Scrooge wanders London with the Ghost of Christmas Present in "A Christmas Carol".

Thoughts on a hog roast

My most recent article from my role as catering expert on The Wedding Community...

When it comes to discussing wedding menus with my clients, the ‘hog roast question’ is right up there with the ‘cake as pudding question’.

There is a time and a place for hog roasts and it’s not necessarily your wedding day.

But how can you tell whether it would suit your day? I hope this helps.

Don’t have a hog roast if…

1.  …you’re uncomfortable with the phrase “big, bloody, raw, dead pig”

At the end of the day that is what it is; trotters on, head-off, hairy skin crisping, tail waving in the breeze. If you are at all squeamish (or have invited even one vociferously vegetarian guest) advance down this route at your peril.

2.  …you haven’t told your guests

Picture the scene: female guests wobbling across the lawn in their high heels, trying to eat a hot bap elegantly without ruining their manicure or dropping ketchup on their beautiful dresses, tutting as their other halves wipe greasy hands on their new suit trousers. Please, if you are having a hog roast, mark it clearly on your invitation so that people come prepared wearing wedge heels and with wet wipes to hand.

3.  …it was all his idea

Men. Meat. Fire. Often I find the hog roast idea comes from a groom who has whimsical dreams of standing next to the BBQ… sorry I mean hog roast… whiling away the hours with a few beers and a group of his mates. This isn’t what happens on your wedding day. If you don’t believe me ask your married friends about their experiences. Accept that you’re hosting a big event for many, not an afternoon at home for a few.

4.  …you’re worried about the weather

Hog roasts involve fire so cannot be done indoors, hence good weather is essential. In the UK it can rain on up to 200 days of the year, so I urge every couple planning their reception in Britain to “hope for the best but plan for the worst”. However, if you are willing to bet that your wedding day will be on one of those precious remaining 165 days (minus those in freezing winter) then go for it. If you are set on an outdoor extravaganza, better to move the location to Bondi Beach or Provence.

5.  …you want a relaxed atmosphere

Hog roasts (like buffets) do not, as you might think, provide a relaxed ‘eat what you like when you like’ meal. In fact the opposite can be true. The hungry people rush in first, other guests wait politely and end up with less, family cliques move 20 chairs round one table and (ironically) a lot of guests choose to sit and wait for someone else to bring them their food anyway. If you really want a relaxed atmosphere, great service is the key.

Do have a hog roast if…

1.  …you’re looking for vintage style or a rock ‘n’ roll look

Be aware that there is a good way and a bad way to do a hog roast but never a particularly pretty way. For good, see Vintage at Goodward, for bad see local rugby club. No two hog roast providers offer the same thing, so choose carefully and double check that you’re getting ‘English village fair’ rather than ‘kebab shop window’.

2.  …you’re wearing a frock (not a gown) or jeans (not a suit)

I know firsthand that long, expensive, structured, embellished bridal gowns do not mix (in anyway) with grease, grass, mud, ketchup, smoke and a bap. However, rock and roll weddings, short, funky, 50’s-style frocks, bohemian style summer dresses and medieval bustiers look fabulous.

3.  …you’re inviting less than 50 guests

The average pig will serve 70 people, as a snack, so I think 50 people per pig for a meal is perfect.

4.  …it’s your pig

I did a fantastic wedding for a foodie couple who had raised their own pig for the purpose of having it butchered for their wedding. They provided the finishing touches to the meal (herbs, greens, flowers) making it so very personal. I love creating bespoke menus; it is a message to your guests and a reflection of who you are. We had the most amazing day in their Orchard and it all felt absolutely right.

5.  …you never want to speak with your vegetarian friends again!